H is for handkerchiefs, and by the way, I want both of these objects in slightly different versions. I think I'm willing to tackle the limited amount of embroidery it would take to make myself a flowered monogram handkerchief. I like the handkerchief pouch, too, but I think I'd make one with a brighter scrap of fabric and a vintage button. (Both have to wait until I finish the regrettably large crocheted doo-dad bag, although I'm pleased to say the half-crochet stitch is coming along swimmingly.)
The letter H also stands for how-to. Since I spent an inordinate amount of time washing and pressing handkerchiefs Thursday, I thought I'd accomplish two things at once and do a little post about how I clean them. I'm not an expert, but you can learn from my mistakes. First, and this is probably obvious, but don't wash vintage handkerchiefs in the washing machine. They're too delicate for all that agitation. If they need to be washed, I soak them in Oxy Clean. It's especially good at getting out yellowing. Not all handkerchiefs are colorfast, so be careful. Be very cautious about yellow and somewhat cautious about red. I start out with maybe a heaping tablespoon in a dishpan-full of hot water. You can make it stronger if you need to, and soaking overnight often does the trick.
One thing that Oxy Clean won't get out are rust spots. On hankies, they're usually little pinhead-size spots that are orange or dark red, usually courtesy of a straight pin or a staple. Whink came to the rescue on this pretty monogrammed handkerchief. Follow the package directions exactly. I don't experiment with stuff that's got a big DANGER label on the front. If all of the stars are aligned, the rust spot will melt away before your very eyes. If a dark cloud is over your head, the Whink will eat away the rust spot and the fabric underneath it. That's more likely if there's a big or very dark spot.
Were you wondering what the L stands for? It's for my pal Linda, who's having a giveaway right now. I've seen the Little dresses she's giving away Live and in person, and they are Lovely. If you're Lucky, you'll win. OK, that's enough from the Letter L.
I use the bleach pen pictured earlier only sparingly, and usually on something a little more sturdy, like a pillowcase. Bleach is harsh stuff. It can also make a white background too white, so you end up with a spot anyway.
This picture is of some of the hankies I finished yesterday - I'm working on my big beauty shot for an eBay listing this weekend. (Some are going on Etsy, too.) The posy is in the middle is covering up the pointed tips that I didn't quite line up.
Here's an ironing action shot. Sort of. This is after the hankie has been washed and air-dried.
Here it is after ironing.
Here it is after starching and ironing. I love starch. I like the pump-bottle, non-aerosol Niagara Spray Starch. I forgot to take its picture. Anyway, a final important note on ironing. Sometimes you read that it's a good idea to iron things while they're slightly damp, to really get out the wrinkles. I'm here to tell you that can end in disaster - like irreversible, I can't believe I just scorched this embroidered Madeira handkerchief to death disaster. The iron can just latch on to those damp fibers and singe them. It doesn't always happen, but it's happened to me often enough to let things dry. I'm so cautious now I even let the starch settle a little. It's horrible to work so hard to get something clean and perfect, only to ruin it in ironing.
Hope this post has been helpful and hasn't bored you to tears. In the right frame of mind, I find all of this fussing with linens sort of soothing and meditative. It's pretty satisfying to the inner preservationist to bring something a little tired back to its original loveliness.